Sunday, October 31, 2010

A Skirt For Hermitkrab

To date, I have made it through 2 very cold winters and learned a few valuable lessons in the process.
One of those lessons is that underpinning, or skirting the trailer is essential when you are in an area that has below freezing temps in the winter, and do not have an enclosed underbelly to keep the waste tanks and valves from freezing.
Last winter, I experimented with what was to be an easy to store and reuse skirt made of tarps. It looked nice at first as seen here , but it wasn't effective. I was forced to redo the entire mess with Styrofoam sheathing just after New Years' with temps not climbing above 20F for over a week.
This winter, I have left the mountains of East Tennessee for the foothills north of Atlanta, GA. I do not expect the weather to be much warmer.
It is not difficult to make an effective skirt with foam sheathing, it is easy to cut with a utility knife. Some good industrial strength duct tape keeps it in place. There are different grades of tape, and the kind most of us grab off the shelf for everyday use does not hold up to the elements, so be sure you choose wisely.

It doesn't really matter where you start, I chose to begin at the front of the trailer since there was some trimming to be done in order to accommodate the tongue.




The sheathing comes in sheets measuring 4 X 8 feet and, in this case, 1/2 an inch thick. I chose the kind that has a silver material on one side and faced the silver side out. Use the duct tape to seal up any seams, and to hold the skirt in place. Be careful to tape to either the frame, or the back of the siding as much as possible. It will leave a residue of adhesive when removed.
I continued down the right or starboard side of the rig and fit the board around the metal steps...



The Tires Help to Hold In Place


Then around the back and the left, or Port, side to the slide...





And back to the front. I also made an access door for the tank valves, and an enclosure for the fresh water connection....



I ran out of the gray duct tape just before I got to this point, so I bought some Gorilla Tape, which was recommended by several posters on the Escapee's Forum. I don't know if it comes in silver or gray, all I could find was black, but it looks good, and sticks better than the duct tape.
For my 28 foot trailer, I used 7 sheets of foam board. The cost was less than $10 per sheet plus the duct tape, and will be easy to remove when I need to.
The last step is to add either a heat lamp or small electric heater. This will help prevent the tanks from freezing and provide a little warmth to the floor of the trailer.
Of course, the best advice for RVing in the Winter? Go where the weather is warmer.



Saturday, October 9, 2010

An Ounce of Prevention....

With Old Man Winter fast approaching, it is time to work on preventing any freezing.
Normally I have done the minimum prevention for the fresh water hose, only wrapping it with foam insulation. This year I decided to take the extra step and add an electric heat cord.

The cord is available at most hardware stores, and is available in several lengths. It is meant to be used on metal or plastic pipes, and not recommended for water hoses, so I put a little foil backed foam tape on the hose first.

Then I ran the heat cord on top of the foil secured every 6 inches or so with tape.


When that was done, I used foam pipe insulation tubes to enclose the hose and heat cord.



This hose is drinking water safe and 25 feet long. I bought the heat cord in a 30 foot length, using the excess for an exterior water filter and the city water inlet. Also, the thermostat for the heat cord is taped to the filter.



Next, I will be skirting the trailer and creating an enclosure for the water using 1/2 inch foam insulation / sheathing.

Tuesday, October 5, 2010

Still Waiting?

"Do not wait for a change of environment, before you act; get a change of environment by action." - Wallace D. Wattles

Friday, September 17, 2010

Saturday, July 24, 2010

Tweet Tweet

OK, I kept saying that I would never do the Twitter thing.
Never say never, LOL!

Follow me on Twitter if you wish.....        @TheHermitKrab

Saturday, July 10, 2010

Hello Again

I will be making some changes to the blog over the next few months....
Goals are being adjusted now and I have taken a more realistic look into acheiving them...
I believe I have found a way, finally to make my dreams happen but it will take a little more time than originally planned to finally have something interesting to Blog about.....

Until next time....

R.

Thursday, November 5, 2009

Update

Well, it took me a while to get back to this. And I still haven’t gotten all of the windows done, but I wanted to show the process.

HKwindows 001

This is one of the smaller windows in the Slide Out. A little tricky because of the overhead cabinet.

HKwindows 002

The valances are attached at the top with “L” brackets. These are offset which is good. I wasn’t sure at first if they had been put on before the cabinet or not. The bottom is attached to the walls directly with screws through the fabric.

HKwindows 003

Once the Valance is removed, then I had to remove the night shade. Actually, I just removed the screws at the top and left the bottom strings attached to the wall.

HKwindows 004

Here is the window without the dressing.

HKwindows 005

Here is the plastic film over the window before it was secured to the wall. On the other windows that I had done, I tried to stick the film to the metal frames, but the tape ended up pulling loose. So for this one, I decided to stick it to the wall. I hope that doesn’t turn out to be a big mistake.

HKwindows 006

A look at the plastic after it has been put in place.

HKwindows 007

Now, when you put this type of film up, following the directions they provide, you use a hair dryer to shrink it. The manufacturer had stick and brick homes in mind, and it didn’t really occur to me that the windows in the RV get very hot just like a car would.

So I believe that shrinking the plastic with the hair dryer is one step that should be skipped if you are doing this. Taping the film to the wall was no better than sticking it to the metal frame, because it has pulled loose also.

I have held off on doing the last few windows because we are still getting days that are warm enough to open them up and enjoy a breeze. But when I do them, I will skip the shrinking step and let the sun do it for me.

Until the next time…